Your Istanbul, 29 July

Standing beneath the grand dome of Hagia Sophia, we reflected on its remarkable journey through four distinct lives: initially a Byzantine cathedral, then briefly Catholic during the Latin period, an Ottoman mosque, a museum from 1935, and a mosque once more since 2020. This architectural marvel truly embodies the layers of history in the old peninsula. Imagine, a thousand years ago, a Viking guard named Halfdan left his mark, etching runic graffiti into a marble parapet to declare 'Halfdan was here' — a timeless reminder of human connection across centuries.

Descending into the cool, dark embrace of the Basilica Cistern, the gentle echo of dripping water settled around us, a sound unchanged for centuries. Among its 336 marble columns, arranged in a precise 12-by-28 grid, we discovered the two Medusa heads reused as column bases. One lay sideways, the other upside down, deliberately turned 'the wrong way' so her stone-turning gaze would point at no one, a fascinating touch of ancient lore embedded deep beneath the city.

At the majestic Gate of Felicity, we stepped into what was more than just a palace; Topkapı was a sprawling city in itself. For approximately 400 years, it served as the formidable seat of the Ottoman court, a place where the Sultan's silence was law. Within its walls, including the intricate quarters of the harem, it functioned as a sophisticated school of power, shaping the destiny of an empire through intricate protocols and profound influence.