essay · Istanbul
The Upside-Down Medusa
Down into the Basilica Cistern
You descend out of the heat into a cool, lamp-lit hush. The water is black and still, and the columns march off into the dark in every direction.
In a far corner, two carved Medusa faces serve as plinths — one on its side, one upside down. Nobody recorded why, so the city supplies the answer it prefers: that a gaze meant to turn men to stone was simply turned away.